Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Falling in Love with Buenos Aires


I have returned to Argentina. My last visit in March consisted of zero exploration of the city. This time, thankfully, it was considerably cheaper for me to arrive Sunday morning, giving me the day to explore. I am very thankful to my friend and colleague—Fabian—for introducing me to more than just my hotel and our office.

Buenos Aires greeted me with refreshing cold air. It’s winter here, and I must confess, I’m loving it. I get to see my breath mysteriously appear before me as I walk to the office each day. I’m wearing a scarf, gloves, and a winter coat. Eating soup and finding warmth and comfort under the feather duvet have become welcomed nightly rituals. Recent snow storms in the south—Patagonia—have made headlines here. It’s the height of summer back home, and, upon my return, I fear I will melt in the triple digit heat.

Despite the winter weather, the city inhabitants enjoy the outdoors and cultural opportunities the city provides. “Around the block” lines to the zoo, museums, farmer’s market, the gaucho exhibition, and botanical gardens, are seen in various neighbourhoods. I love that the locals partake and enjoy what the city has to offer. Argentines spend their leisure time outside—despite the time of year or weather. I frequently witness families spending quality time outdoors together; lovers sharing a glass of wine and sneaking glances while sitting on a bridge, overlooking Puerto Madero. It’s the simple pleasures in life that, sadly, are not frequently encountered back home.

The city wears a distinctly European face. Tree-lined avenues lead past restaurants, cafes, boutiques, and galleries, many housed in French-style buildings. The city is littered with acres of parks, wooded areas, and lakes. Families flock here to picnic, bicycle, in-line skate, jog, or leisurely stroll—soaking in the warmth of the fiery sun. Many neighbourhoods house narrow cobblestone streets, high trees, and a particular kind of public candle light (faroles)...creating an atmosphere I can only image, reminiscent of a time and age which I am too young to know.

I also love that women and men can wear fur here, and it is not controversial. The struggle of nature versus man is very different here. Wildlife—especially horses and bovines—are central to the history, and thus the present, of the country. The land is worked just 20 kilometres outside the city centre, providing the freshest fruits, vegetables, and meats to the restaurants, vendors, and markets in Capital Federal.

The most flavourful beef one could ever imagine is here. I have never been a big beef eater, but I always get my share when visiting. There is no added sauce or spice. It’s a combination of naturally raised steers, good butchering, perfect aging (no freezing), and meticulous preparation for the modern-day Prometheus. And let’s not forget the sweetbreads (the thymus and pancreas glands of the cow).

Here are some additional fun facts I learned on my trip:

  • Buenos Aires is 537 miles further than London from home

  • The most important polo matches in the world are held in Buenos Aires. The city is a nerve centre for equestrian activities

  • The earliest evidence of human activity dates to 11,000 BC

  • The largest export is the soy bean…to China for soy sauce

  • The Argentine Peso and the US Dollar were equally traded less than 15 years ago

  • The city is home to one of the four most important Opera Houses in the world